A group of vintners from Dry Creek Valley rolled into Smashbox Studios in Culver City over the weekend for a delightful event hosted by Ian Blackburn and the fine folks at Wine LA. Yours Truly served as emcee, a job that consisted mostly of drinking lots of ridiculously good wine, chowing down on BBQ and chatting up some of Sonoma County’s finest winemakers. Not a bad day’s work, really.
Zinfandel is king in Dry Creek Valley, and has been since a Frenchman named Georges Bloch first planted the hearty grape there in the 1870s. Though it doesn’t have the lofty reputation (or price tag) of Napa Valley Cabernet, the old vine zinfandel made in Dry Creek Valley rates among the finest fortified grape juice in the U.S. And the Sauvignon Blanc produced there, well, some of it is world-class as well. Here are some standouts...
Sbragia Family Vineyards “La Promessa” Zinfandel 2012 ($48)
Both the wine and the vineyard from which it is sourced are named
after the Italian term for “The Promise.” And I promise you, this is a magnificent wine from one of the best Dry Creek Valley vintages in recent memory. La Promessa spent 18 months aging in a combo of new and seasoned French oak barrels, which imparted delectable brown spice and cedar notes. I picked up some vanilla and pomegranate flavor going on in there as well. Delicate tannins give the wine a rich, creamy mouthfeel. Just a scooch of Petite Sirah was added to bolster the back end.
Fritz Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($25)
The grapes that went into this delightful white wine were whole cluster pressed, a process that tends to produce what I have, at this very moment, begun referring to as “genial juice.” It rolls off the tongue, right? Genial juice tends to be softer, less astringent, than destemmed yield. Think Kendrick Lamar rather than Kanye West. There’s a nice balance between the ripe fruit and acidity. Digging the minerality, and the grapefruit and orange notes as well. This wine, yo, is m.A.A.d city!
Cast Watson Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel 2013 ($39)
So we’re clear, there is no legal definition for what constitutes an “old vine.” I asked a few winemakers at the Dry Creek Valley event, and the consensus seemed to be that when a vine reaches the half-century mark, it’s old. Oh, then… Cast Winery is a small operation in Geyserville that’s only been around a few years, yet has already made quite a name for itself producing outstanding Old Vine Zinfandel. The ‘13 Watson Vineyard is powerful and elegant. A complex wine that commands your attention from the first sip to the last. Jammy, with berry notes and some smokiness on the finish. An absolute steal at under $40.
Wilson Sawyer Zinfandel 2012 ($39)
The good news — Diane Wilson makes amazing wine. Quintessential California Zinfandel and crisp, delicious Sauvignon Blanc. The kind of wine you make a special trip to the store for. Ah, but the bad news is, Wilson can’t seem to make enough of it. Her 2012 Treborce Zin is delicious... but sold out. Same goes for the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc. So forget the wine shop. Visit Wilson’s website, join their wine club and get your order in PRONTO, because chances are it’ll all be gone soon… at least until the next vintages are released.
Dry Creek Vineyard Old 
Vine Zinfandel 2013 ($32)
Had my Uncle Luigi lived to try this, he might have exclaimed, “Now that’s a spicy wine!” He was a real caricature, that Luigi. The spiciness is complemented by blackberry and cherry. There’s some cardamom present too. According to the winemaker, this is thoughtful Zinfandel – “the kind of wine that requires some good jazz and a fantastic book for a long evening of enjoyment.” Which reminds me…
Interested in having your wine reviewed by Dan Dunn. Contact us editor@californiawineryadvisor.com.
Dan’s latest book, "American Wino: A Tale of Reds, Whites and One Man’s Blues” will be released April 5th, 2016. It’s available for preorder now on Amazon.com, Harpercollins.com and other online retailers. Follow him on Twitter @TheImbiber
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