Oregon’s Willamette Valley is filthy with great dirt, from some of the deepest deposits of fertile alluvial soil on the planet to fine and nutrient rich loess to volcanic Jory that imbues the region’s Pinot Noir with its signature spiciness. Soil, I should point out, is key to the process known as growing stuff, which in turn is one of the main components of winemaking. Indeed, in the absence of grown stuff —in this case, grapes— wine tends to lack structure and complexity.
Willamette is home to some of the top winemakers in the U.S., among them Tony Soter of Soter Vineyards. His delightful North Valley Pinot Noir kicks off this month’s batch of reviews...
Soter Vineyards North Valley Pinot Noir 2013, Willamette Valley ($34)
This is the epitome of delightful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir — medium-bodied, silky, strikes a fine balance between bright red fruit and acidity. Uncomplicated and very drinkable.
There’s a great floral quality to this wine. Fantastic value that should age well over the next decade or so.
Peterson Bradford Mountain Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Dry Creek Valley ($40)
Peterson has been producing quality wines in the Dry Creek Valley for a quarter century, and proudly embraces the philosophy of “zero manipulation,” which they’ve described as using the gentlest winemaking techniques possible to maximize flavors, aromatics and the original essence of the wine.
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Merlot (10%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot (3%) is a big wine that makes a great companion for savory prime rib — it’s got nice minerality tinged with spiciness and mocha. Let it rest a few years and it’ll really deliver.
Mt. Brave “Mt. Veeder” Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Napa Valley ($75)
2013 was a banner year for grape growing in the Napa Valley. Dry conditions throughout yielded fruit with ideal flavor concentration and maturation, which in turn produced well-rounded, approachable wines such as this one.
Mt. Veeder is a high elevation vineyard that is difficult to farm, but the extra effort pays off. It’s cooler at altitude, and the vines position above the fog line spells more daily exposure to sunlight. This extends the growing season, and that added hang-time results in riper more flavorful fruit. Native malolactic fermentation in barrels helped round out the acidity and imbued the wine with a pleasant vanilla taste.
Ruffino “Riserva Ducale” Chianti Classico Riserva 2012 ($25)
Esteemed Italian producer Ruffino will always hold a special place in my heart, as their Santedame estate in the heart of Tuscany is the first Old World winery I ever visited... way back in the Dark Ages (aka, the mid-90s). Happy to report this ruby red wine is as good as I remember. On the nose, cherry notes mingle with flint and shoe leather. Velvety mouthfeel, solid tannins, and some rosemary on the finish.
Ca’Momi Napa Valley Merlot 2014 ($20
I met the folks from Ca’Momi a few years back at a Michael Franti concert in Hollywood. The winery is heavily involved with Franti’s Do It For The Love Foundation which, among other great endeavors, brings children with severe challenges, people with life-threatening illness and wounded veterans to live music concerts. Ca’Momi walks the walk, and that alone is a great reason to support them. Oh, and the wine is pretty damn good too.
All kinds of delightful fruit flavors are evident in the Merlot — plum, blackberry, boysenberry and then some. Also taste vanilla, mint and clove. Very easy-drinking, excellent table wine.
Luna Nuda Pinot Grigio 2015 ($15)
Summer is almost over, but not just yet. If you’re still feeling the heat — I’m talking to you, east coast — then I invite you to chill out with this award-winning wine crafted by the 4th generation of the Giovanett family at the Castelfeder Winery in Alto Adige, Italy’s premier site for Pinot Grigio.
This will appeal to those who enjoy their Pinot Grigio crisp, with strong minerality. It’s refreshing, not too fruity, and a good value at only $15.
Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Napa Valley ($48)
Yet another Napa Valley winner from the banner year that was 2013. Grown and produced at one of the area’s most historic properties, this is a Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of muscle and lots of style. Full-bodied, lush fruit, and a strong backbone. This wine longs to be served alongside filet mignon.
Drinking well now, but will improve over the next five years. And while half a hundo is no chump change, this is a great value at that price.
Mazzocco Reserve Smith Orchard Zinfandel 2013, Dry Creek Valley ($52)
Mazzocco is known for its sumptuous Zinfandels, made from fruit grown at some of the most picturesque mountain vineyards in all of Sonoma County. Indeed, winemaker Antoine Favero is likely to appear on most oenophiles’ short lists of the most skilled Zinfandel producers in California (including mine).
The 2013 Smith Orchard Zin is a dignified, terroir-driven, bold red with notes of dusty flowers, licorice and coffee.