Santa Cruz Wineries

The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA and the Santa Cruz wineries that populate it tell the story of mavericks establishing strength in a setting so distinct it is the lead character. This is a place that stands even with the protagonists and the plot, not just background, but a space that entertains and captivates page after page.

 

Caption: The view from Big Basin Vineyards. Credit: Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association

Up Above in Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz Mountains AVA lies east of California’s Silicon Valley, but the atmosphere reflects none of the high-tech-rush of the workplace. As one of California’s oldest established wine regions, there are influences that haven’t changed in the past 100 years. These are high-altitude vineyards, and mechanization is used sparingly at the Santa Cruz wineries and vineyards. Sloped and forest-nested vineyards aren’t the place for bulky harvesters at ranges up to 2,600 feet.

When Thomas Fogarty Jr. of Thomas Fogarty calls this method “high-performance farming” what he means is highly skilled. A significant part of that skill is a balance with Mother Nature. Farming lands above and below the fog line means that microclimates abound. Hot days and cool, moist nights keep higher acid levels intact, bringing a distinct minerality to the wines of Santa Cruz. Cool climate varietals such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive here.

Cabernet Sauvignon does something special in Santa Cruz too. Cuttings from some of the first Cabernet Sauvignon ever cultivated in California are the base for vineyards under the care of Mount Eden Vineyards and Ridge Vineyards. The maritime layer brings lower tannins and a classic structure to a varietal that has received a certain New World treatment from Napa neighbors.

Rhône varietals, championed by Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard, anchor a chapter in the story of Santa Cruz. Recognized worldwide as an innovator and creative, Grahm has brought energy to the cultivation of Rhône varietals in Santa Cruz in specific, but California (and the new world) in general.

Caption: Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Credit: Lindsey Sonu

Visiting Santa Cruz Mountains Wine Region: In Town

Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is set in a frame of San Francisco, Monterey Bay, and the Silicon Valley and covers three counties of the beautiful mountainous landscape. Fly into San Francisco or San Jose, and then rent a car to get the most of a visit. The city of Santa Cruz is situated along the San Lorenzo River and has a laid-back coastal vibe (their website even has a live “surf cam”) and is home to the University of California Santa Cruz. In town, visitors can take their pick of restaurants, such as Laili a blend of flavors from Mediterranean and Afgan origins with a farm-to-table practice. Or drive to nearby Capitola for a table at Shadowbrook, a captivating setting known for fresh food and top service (and a working cable car, talk about unique).

Book a room at the cozy and elegant West Cliff Inn, where an Afternoon Wine and Hors d’oeuvres reception is a treat for wine lovers. For an ocean view, promised in every room, make a reservation at Sea & Sand Inn where wine and cheese are served every evening.

To taste local wine in town, visit the Ingalls Street Courtyard where Santa Cruz wineries Silver Mountain Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, Quinta Cruz (Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard’s Iberian-style wines), Sones Cellars, and MJA Vineyards hold tastings. Make the short drive south to the creative haven of Bonny Doon Vineyard, home to Randall Grahm’s incarnations of Rhône varietals. Bonny Doon crafts interesting, delicious wines such as their Old Telegram made from 100% Mourvèdre and their just-released rosé which is a blend of Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Mourvèdre, Carignane, Cinsaut, and a dash of Roussanne. A true assemblage of Rhône grapes; when grown in California, Bonny Doon is the most noted label.

Saratoga is a small community in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This village makes a perfect weekend home base to sample from the local Santa Cruz wineries. Consider the Taste of Saratoga package at The Inn at Saratoga, which includes tastings at Cinnabar, The Mountain Winery, and Cooper Garrod Estate Vineyards. Farmers’ markets, gardens, trails, shops, and restaurants make Saratoga worth a planned visit. Nearby Big Basin Vineyards sits on a historic vineyard site near Big Basin State Park. Proprietor and Winemaker Bradley Brown replanted a turn-of-the-century vineyard to make his inspired estate wines, grown on a windy hillside.

Caption: Ridge Monte Bello Vineyard. Credit: Ridge Vineyards

Visiting Santa Cruz Mountains Wine Region: In the Country

To get a natural impression of making wine in Santa Cruz, visitors should head out of town. Expect a world-class experience at these Santa Cruz wineries, a mix of internationally-known vintners as well as small-batch operations. The view is stunning and immersion into the setting is part of the fun. In the rugged terrain of Santa Cruz, diligently plan for drive time between estates and call ahead if navigation seems unclear.

Up north, about 15 miles as-the-crow-flies west of Palo Alto, rests Thomas Fogarty, an iconic estate that was recently awarded in Wine & Spirits Top 100 Wineries of the Year. Fogarty is known for cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 30-year-old vines planted at 2,000 feet above sea level. Enjoy the winding scenic route along CA-35 to next visit Ridge Vineyards. Ridge is classic top-quality California excellence; their 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon placed 5^th in the Judgement of Paris competition. One of the most awarded and historically significant vintners in American, the Ridge Monte Bello tasting room has a view to match the wine. Consider an appointment for a 90-minute estate tasting, which includes a tour through the Old Winery barn.

Caption: The warm welcome at Byington. Credit: Byington

David Bruce and Byington are set nearby on a snaking road, south of Mount McPherson (the highest point in Santa Cruz County). David Bruce is another icon with a historic entry into the Judgement of Paris competition, their 1973 Chardonnay. Burgundian in character, sample Bruce’s highly regarded Pinot Noir, a varietal for which he was an early champion. Byington offers a wine country experience, with tastings and tours in their eye-candy villa with panoramic views. Reserve a cellar tasting, shuttle ride through the vines, bocce court, or even your own BBQ grill to spend extra time enjoying the atmosphere.

Three wineries of note that don’t accept visitors, but have shaped the standards for Santa Cruz area wines are Rhys Vineyards, Kathryn Kennedy, and Mount Eden Vineyards. Rhys and Mount Eden do at times offer limited visits by reservation in advance.

Santa Cruz is a place of beauty, creativity, and boldness. A visit here should be on the horizon for nature-lovers and wine enthusiasts; the vintners here have elements of both personalities, and their wine exhibits their unique perspective.

 

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