California is a state rich in vineyard microclimates and terroir. With over 800 miles of coastline, parts of the state receive the cooling impact of the Pacific Ocean. Inland valleys and hills find the sun’s warmth sticks around a bit longer, protected by the landscape. The generosity of the land is matched only the by variety and creativity of the local winemakers, some of which have discovered that their California vineyard is the perfect spot to grow less-likely varietals. The outcome is excellent for the wine-drinker, an unexpected range of delightful bottles that express both terroir and winemaking style.
Clenenden Family Vineyards, Bien Nacido Vineyards in Santa Maria
Since Jim Clendenen founded of Au Bon Climat in 1982 he has created Burgundy-inspired Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in Bien Nacido in Santa Maria (Santa Barbara County). In 35 years of winemaking, the estate has maintained their commitment to refinement and elegance when it comes to their flagship wines, but Clendenen has set a foothold in California creativity, testing the waters with less-likely varietals and having quite a go at success through his other labels, particularly Clenendan Family Vineyards.
Caption: Jim Clenenden of Au Bon Climat. Courtesy: Au Bon Climat
Aligoté Le Bon Climat: Aligoté is a Burgundian varietal pickier than Pinot Noir, thus it has occupied the shadows of more profitable varietals. The long growing season in Santa Maria allows for a totally fresh expression of the varietal which is hand-picked, hand-sorted and whole-cluster pressed then placed in neutral Francois Frères cooperage for 10 months. The wine has aromatics of lavender and pear and presents a steely personality in the mouth. $18 from the estate
Nebbiolo Bricco Buon Natale: Nebbiolo was first planted in the Bien Nacido vineyards in 1994, and the years that followed were a struggle until the vines got comfortable and established. The first release was in 2006; the vintage was 2000 – six years of aging, five in Hungarian oak and one in the bottle. During that time the wine rode out the craze for deep, dark, highly extracted wines and came up singing in 2006 with balance and finesse. Clenendan has shared that he learned from the winemakers of Piedmonte, not to imprint their style but rather to learn how to handle Nebbiolo to express the Bien Nacido terroir. $35 from the estate
Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz
Randall Grahm work is no secret in the wine world. He’s the captain of American Rhône varietal cultivation, and he has staked his good name to his creativity. He’s the author of “Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology”, published in 2009. In 2010 the Culinary Institute of America inducted him into the Vintner’s Hall of Fame. Bonny Doon’s tasting room in Davenport (just 10 miles north of Santa Cruz) is known as the Dooniverse, definitely a producer worth exploring for cool wines.
Caption: Randall Grahm with a glass of wine in his vineyards. Credit: Nicole diGiorgio
2015 Cunning: 76% “old-vine, head-trained, dry-farmed Carignane” finished with Mourvèdre, this wine is totally unexpected in California. Carignan(e), a southern French native, has never really been in fashion in California, and in fact has felt the world’s shun until recently as it was the base for low-value, bulk wines for many years. Grahm exhibits a more stylish side of the varietal, waiting out the highly productive early years to create wine from old vines, slightly lazier on yield, but higher in quality. $26 from the estate
2015 Pinot Meunier: The third-in-line brother of the Champagne set, Pinot Meunier isn’t talked about as a still wine grape in California. A touch of the varietal is grown in the state, nearly all of it used in sparkling wines. Bonny Doon has done something on the other side of the moon with this varietal, inspired by Burgundy’s meaty Pinot Noir, a relative of the Pinot Meunier. Grahm expects this bottle to age with complexity, so buy one to drink later. $30 from the estate for this cool wine.
Markus Wine Co. (a subventure of Borra Vineyards) in Lodi
Swiss-born Borra Vineyards winemaker Markus Niggli is unbridled. Through his own label, Markus Wine Co. he’s free to source the grapes for his small-batch wines inspired by his contemporary, fresh, early-harvest style of winemaking. He has some unexpected options in neighboring Lodi vineyards, where the old tendency to expect big bomb Zinfandels has totally expired. Growers in Lodi cultivate a spectrum of varietals and Niggli has an eye for finding gems.
Caption: At Mokelumne Glen Vineyards Markus Niggli describes his winemaking to attendees of the Wine Bloggers Conference. Courtesy: Borra Vineyards
Markus Joey Insieme: This blend is made of 95% Torrontes from Silvaspoons Vineyards and 5% Traminette from Cain Vineyards in North Carolina. As Niggli describes it, “The wine is more like a dinner course bottled, or a worthy substitute for that morning Bloody Mary.” He calls it a wine to stump your wine geek friends as it changes over the course of an evening. Torrontes is very aromatic, a white varietal that originated in high-altitude vineyards in Argentina. Don’t let the sweet nose fool you – this a dry wine with lots of expression. $18.99 from the estate
Markus Nativo: Mokelumne Glen Vineyards in Lodi is the only source of the rare Kerner grape in California and Niggli’s Nativo is 50% Mokelumne Kerner balanced with 29% Riesling, 15% Bacchus, 4% Gewürztraminer. This is a mouthful of unexpected stuff from Lodi, the only bottle of its kind. The label ingeniously contains the postal code for Markus’s hometown in Switzerland from where cool-climate inspiration flows. Fresh and clean on the palate, with subtle fruit. $18.99 from the winery
Inspired by global producers, California winemakers bring a bit of France, Germany, Argentina and Italy to American tables, proving that vinodiversity is an active part of winemaking in California. An adventurous wine lover will enjoy exploring these cool wines.
Jill writes about cool wines (travel + food too) as a freelancer in addition to her blog, L'occasion, which is the winner of the Best Overall Wine Blog and Best Writing on a wine blog. She is also a fiction writer. Find her on twitter and instagram @jillbarth.
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